Debbie Ortman of the Organic Consumers Association is on the defensive these days. In a recent essay, she says the fact that “organically grown food is more expensive than conventionally grown food” is a “myth” — even though Ortman herself writes, “For some food items this statement is true.”

Ortman has her work cut out for her if she wants to convince consumers that “organic” doesn’t mean “expensive.” Even Theresa Marquez, marketing director for Organic Valley, disagrees: “The question is not, why is organic food so expensive. The question is, why are the foods we are eating now so cheap.”