We’ve always been told not to play with our food. But now nutrition writers are telling us to fear it. In the summer issue of the highbrow foodie journal Gastronomica, University of California at Santa Cruz professor Julie Guthman deflates the obesity theory of food “addictions” touted by many “experts” (aka “food cops”) like Michael Pollan, Jane Goodall, and Marion Nestle:

[These writers] discuss the ubiquity of fast, junky food (what Kelly Brownell calls the ‘toxic environment’) in order to make their points about what constitutes ‘real’ food … This raises an important question: why are Pollan, Goodall, and Nestle not fat? If junk food is so ubiquitous that it cannot be resisted, how is it that some people remain (or become) thin?